Personal finance digression: putting Mango in "time out"

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I periodically write about high-interest accounts which I think are obvious choices for people with basically unlimited access to cash. In June I wrote that Mango prepaid cards had stopped accepting new applications. Shortly after that, the similar Union Plus Prepaid card was discontinued and cardholders were told that our accounts would be closed and a new prepaid card provider would contact us by September 16, 2015.

Reminder: why these cards were great

Although it was never advertised or clearly communicated, the Mango and Union Plus prepaid cards were great savings vehicles for two reasons:

  • the linked 6% APY savings accounts did not, in fact, require any employer direct deposits to have their well-above-market interest rates triggered;
  • the prepaid card balance allowed Automated Clearing House (ACH) "pulls" initiated by most credit cards and banks.

That meant that simply parking $5,000 (or $15,000 — cardholders were allowed 3 distinct accounts with a $5,000 limit on each 6% APY savings account) in the linked savings accounts allowed cardholders to generate a little over 5% APY (after a $3 monthly fee) on what were completely liquid funds: each month, the interest could be moved from the savings account to the linked prepaid card account and withdrawn as a transfer to most bank accounts or as a credit card payment.

The new Mango product is not the same as the old Mango product

In July, Mango announced that they would transition from their existing MasterCard prepaid product to a Visa prepaid product, and invited existing cardholders to apply for the new product.

I've now completely transitioned one of my accounts to the new Visa prepaid product, and am not impressed. Here's what I know so far about the new product, and about transitioning from the old product:

  • Once you activate your new Visa prepaid card, your prepaid and savings account balances instantly transfer to the account you access at my.mangomoney.com, rather than at rev.mangomoney.com;
  • You can continue to make ACH deposits to your new, Visa prepaid account using the First Bank & Trust routing number you used previously (114994196) using your First Bank & Trust account number;
  • You can no longer make ACH withdrawals using that account information;
  • You can also not make ACH withdrawals using the Sunrise Bank routing number (091017138) that comes with your Visa prepaid card.

The new accounts have been around for too little time to provide definite answers to the following questions:

  • Do you need to receive $500 in direct deposits to qualify for 6% APY on the new savings accounts?
  • If so, what direct deposits qualify?
  • Is the $2,500 daily purchase limit enforced?

The answer to these questions is essential since the principle benefit of using these accounts for your high-interest savings was their liquidity. If the $2,500 daily purchase limit is enforced, than it would take 2 full days to withdraw $2,500 from the prepaid account by buying, for example, money orders. If the daily purchase limit is not enforced, then while there would be a slight inconvenience, you could still withdraw a $5,000 balance by simply buying five $1,000 money orders at a cost of roughly $3.50.

Likewise, if a $500 direct deposit is required to trigger the savings account's high interest rate, that will require also finding the time each month to move that $500 back to cash using a method besides ACH pulls.

Neither of those are deal-breakers, but they're both far short of complete liquidity.

I don't trust this company enough to find out

I'm not planning to close my Mango accounts for now, but I am putting them in "time out:" I'm withdrawing all the money from my accounts and redistributing it. In the case of my "old" MasterCard account, that means simply making ACH withdrawals from the linked checking account. In the case of my "new" Visa account, it means buying cheap money orders, since ACH withdrawals no longer work. Since I haven't maxed out my Consumers Credit Union Rewards Checking account yet, I'll park the money there until the dust settles and earn a "mere" 5.09% APY on it.

I'll keep an eye on the situation and if the state of play evolves significantly I'll be sure to update my readers.

In the meantime, here are two invaluable resources regarding all things Mango (if you don't mind wading through the personal attacks):

Weekend Roundup Roundup for August 23, 2015

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A lot of bloggers write weekend roundups of their own posts or posts from other bloggers they found interesting or helpful that week.

So many, in fact, that it can be hard to keep track of them all. To make it easier, here's the inaugural Weekend Roundup Roundup: your roundup of all the weekend roundups you may have missed:

How to get started travel hacking (hint: don't apply for any credit cards!)

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A lot of people seem to treat my site as a space for "advanced" travel hackers, but I've never felt that way myself; in fact, I don't think of myself as an "advanced" travel hacker at all!

  • I don't know the first thing about fuel dumps (although I took advantage of one for my January trip to Italy).
  • I don't game voluntary denied boarding vouchers (although I was pleased as punch to take one last Sunday).
  • I don't pore over portal bonuses, buying and reselling gift cards and merchandise in order to manufacture spend (although I'll always use portals and bonus categories to buy the things I need at the steepest discount possible).

I consider myself a working travel hacker. This is my job: I love it, I have a lot of fun, and my readers are the greatest, but I'm no expert.

I wrote my (now quite outdated) ebook, and launched this site, not because I had any special insight into travel hacking, but because all the major existing blogs were so obviously taking advantage of their readers' ignorance.

In other words, I've always thought of this site as a resource to save beginners from experts, not to pile more expert advice on them. With that in mind, here is the best beginner advice I can muster from my experience in the travel hacking game.

Don't apply for credit cards (until you're ready)

Manufacturing spend with the right co-branded and proprietary credit cards is a fantastic way to generate miles and points that you can redeem for travel.

Manufacturing spend with the wrong co-branded and proprietary credits cards is a fantastic way to generate profits for the issuing banks.

There is a whole industry committed to convincing you that what's good for the banks' bottom lines is good for you. It isn't. The only way you'll ever be able to make the right decision about what credit cards should be in your travel hacking portfolio is taking deep dives into the earning and redeeming structure of each card.

A lot of that information is here. A lot of that information is on Google. And if it's not in either place, ask!

Your credit score is not even among your most valuable assets

Bloggers who are paid based on the number of successful credit card applications you complete are naturally game to figure out how to "goose" your credit score as much as possible.

If you're interested in applying for new credit cards, it's worth learning how to improve your credit score in order to ensure those applications are successful.

For example, once you figure out when your credit cards report their balances to the credit bureaux, you can pay off those balances ahead of time: that will ensure that however much you spend each month, other credit card companies will treat you as debt-free.

But unless you're applying for new credit, you should basically not care about your credit score month-to-month. Your credit score does not hover above your head while you go about your daily business.

Plan around (your!) actual travel

One particularly pernicious feature of affiliate blogging is picking random "aspirational" destinations and explaining how the credit cards the blogger is selling will get you there.

But if you weren't interested in traveling to Bali before you discovered travel hacking, why would some random credit card bonus encourage you to go there?

Once you've examined your actual travel plans, you'll likely find that a 2% cash back card serves your needs best.

And when you've come to terms with that, you'll finally be able to calculate how other signup bonuses and earning rates will allow you to save money by leveraging hotel, airline, and proprietary bank points.

Conclusion

My animosity towards the "Big 5" affiliate travel blogs is no secret. But there's no straightforward way to keep folks who are newly interested in the hobby from falling into the same expensive mistakes over, and over, and over again. There may never be.

And as long as that's the case, I'll keep writing.

Using Mint to track travel hacking expenses and returns

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The single most important thing you can do to succeed in travel hacking is stay organized. That's true of every single aspect of the game:

  • If you're booking your hotel stays through a portal like Rocketmiles or Pointshound, you have to make sure the correct number of miles post for each and every reservation: miles posting incorrectly or not at all means foregoing hotel loyalty points in vain;
    • If you're chasing elite status, you have to make sure you know the number of elite-qualifying miles you need each year and game out each and every flight you plan to take: falling short by a few hundred — or even just a few — elite-qualifying miles is in most cases a catastrophic failure;
  • If you're manufacturing spend across a number of credit cards, you need to keep track of the statement closing and payment due dates of each and every one of your cards: a single missed payment will result in interest and penalties that can wipe out the returns on months of manufactured spend.

I use a variety of methods to track my manufactured spend, but just one to track my actual income and expenses: Mint.com.

Mint can download most transactions from most banks most of the time

Most major banks and many reloadable prepaid card accounts can be added to your Mint master account. When you do so, each time you refresh your Mint account your balances and transactions are downloaded from each bank's server.

The system's not perfect, and I find that Mint's servers are unable to download transactions from some banks most of the time. US Bank is a particular offender — don't bother using Mint to track business credit card accounts with US Bank.

Tracking transactions is nice in and of itself, but the real genius of Mint is allowing you to recategorize transactions, which is to say reassign them from the category Mint guesses they belong, to the category where you know they really belong.

Recategorizing transactions gives you a concrete sense of your actual income and expenses

Here's a deposit to my primary local credit union checking account. Mint originally categorized it as "Income," but I knew better and recategorized it as "Transfer:"

That keeps Mint from adding that amount to my monthly income statistics.

In addition to recategorizing transactions, Mint also allows you to "split" them. Here's a recent purchase I made at one popular merchant:

Mint, naturally enough, originally categorized the $504.94 transaction as an expense. But, knowing better, I categorized just $5.64 of it as "Fees & Charges," while the remaining $499.30 has no effect on how Mint reports my income and expenses since I recategorized it as a "Transfer."

As a final example, for tax reasons it's necessary for me to track my self-employment income. But I also want to treat things like credit card retention bonuses, statement credits, and cash back as positive income flow. To do that, I use Mint's "bonus" category (you can create your own categories to help refine transaction reporting even further):

Don't worry, I'll be paying self-employment tax on Andy's subscription come April.

Do you need to keep track of your manufactured spend expenses?

This practice gives me an instant grasp each month of every penny I spend on fees while manufacturing spend, and also lets me see at a glance how much of a cash return I get on those fees.

It's also a pain in the ass.

Don't get me wrong: I do all this coding while in bed each morning sipping a cup of coffee or three. But you don't get to sleep in every day, sipping coffee. You have a job. Hell, you may have two jobs!

So should you keep track of your manufactured spend expenses as closely as I do? There are strong arguments on both sides.

On the one hand, as I hopefully made clear, Mint can only keep track of dollar-denominated expenses and returns. It won't tell you how valuable your Hilton HHonors points or United Mileage Plus miles are; it will only tell you how much you paid for them. Since you aren't recording income each time you redeem your miles and points, why should you record your costs each time you earn them?

On the other hand, you really are spending cash money when you manufacture spend. That's money you can't put towards a down payment, towards tuition, or towards retirement. It's gone, and if you use Mint to track your expenses, logic demands that those expenditures be recorded somehow as well.

Conclusion

Ultimately, I come down on the side of meticulously tracking manufactured spend expenses, not because they make a huge impact on my net worth, but because I find it risky to dispense with absolutely rigorous honesty when so much is potentially at stake. I can't help but think that if someone doesn't face the concrete costs they pay when manufacturing spend, they'll be more likely to ignore similar expenses elsewhere in their financial life.

That being the case, I'm happy erring on the side of scrupulous honesty when it comes to my own income and expenses.

How do you react to a shock to your travel budget? How should you?

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Yesterday my scheduled flight out from my ancestral homeland was overbooked — very overbooked. They asked for 6 volunteers, and ended up taking 5 of them, each of whom received $1,300 in Delta voluntary denied boarding compensation. I was one of the lucky inconvenienced (my partner was volunteer #6, and had to actually fly home, the poor thing), and the proud owner of $1,300 in Delta travel.

Then I realized that I had a problem. I already manufacture enough miles and points to pay for my planned hotels and air travel. In fact, once my next statement closes and my HHonors points post, I'll have all 5 of my remaining planned vacations this calendar year fully booked.

Moreover, Delta transportation vouchers are non-transferrable: the recipient has to be one of the passengers on the reservation — although excess funds can be used to pay for additional passengers on the same reservation.

Air transportation vouchers are worth (much) less than cash

This is a corollary of my argument that statement credits are worth (much) less than cash: for me, $1,300 in airfare is worth a maximum of $700, since that's the cash value of the 70,000 US Bank Flexpoints I would otherwise redeem for a reservation costing between $1,200 and $1,400, and as little as $350 or so, which is roughly what I paid out of pocket for those Flexpoints.

But does that mean I should take my $1,300 in bump compensation by redeeming 70,000 Flexpoints for $700 in cash?

Thinking about travel budget shocks

With a nod to economics, we can describe what happened yesterday as a positive "shock" to my travel budget. If my miles and points balances, travel needs, and manufactured spend strategy were previously in equilibrium, they are now by definition out of equilibrium: I've now accidentally purchased more (deeply-discounted) travel than I have a current plan for using. Since I try to never earn miles and points speculatively, this disequilibrium requires action.

But what action? Here are four ways I could respond to this travel budget shock.

Monetization

No, I don't mean selling the transportation voucher — it can only be used for reservations where I'm one of the passengers. I have in mind the following logic:

  • I just received $1,300 in airfare.
  • I planned to redeem 70,000 Flexpoints for my next $1,300 in airfare.
  • Instead I'll use the transportation voucher and redeem my Flexpoints for $700 in cash.

It's true that my Flexpoints are worth more than $700 when redeemed for airfare, but that's begging the question: the whole point is that $1,300 in airfare is worth less than $1,300.

Why do you think the airlines are so eager to give it away?

Travel more

I have a strategy for earning all the miles and points I need for the travel I already have planned, but now that I have $1,300 in Delta funny money, I can travel more than I expected. There's always somewhere to go, after all!

The simplest way to do this is to not alter my planned earning and redemption at all: if all my trips are already optimized between revenue fares (paid for with cheap Ultimate Rewards points and Flexpoints) and award trips, then I can convert my Delta transportation voucher directly into airfare for new trips.

A more nuanced (read: time-consuming) approach would be to re-optimize all my refundable and not-yet-booked air reservations. For example, a $450 ticket that I might have planned to reluctantly redeem 30,000 Flexpoints against can now be paid for with my transportation voucher, while I can redeem those Flexpoints for a new trip costing up to $600.

Likewise, a $250 flight against which I might have redeemed 20,000 Ultimate Rewards points can now be paid for with Delta funny money, and I can start looking around for a high-value Hyatt redemption where I can stretch those same Ultimate Rewards points.

Convert to leisure

My current manufactured spend strategy met my current needs before the travel budget shock, but now it exceeds those needs by $1,300. Sounds like it's time for a vacation! For the next 70,000 Flexpoints I had planned to earn, now I get to hit the alarm clock and go back to sleep.

Just kidding. I don't have an alarm clock.

But for those of you who do, if your goal is to earn the miles and points you need to meet your travel needs, a large positive travel budget shock like this is a godsend. Spend the time you would have spent at the grocery store, gas station, or hunting down promising Kiva loans with your kids. They probably won't appreciate it, but you will.

Switch to cash

Everyone has their "best" cash back option. Maybe it's 5% cash back with a US Bank Cash+ Visa card or a "new" "old" Blue Cash card. Maybe it's 2.625% cash back with a Bank of America Travel Rewards card. Maybe it's 2.105% cash back with a Barclaycard Arrival+ MasterCard. Maybe it's 2%+ with a Fidelity Investment Rewards American Express (or Visa, or MasterCard). Maybe it's a Citi Double Cash (although that's a stretch).

If you don't want to slow down your manufactured spend, and you don't want to monetize the points you've already earned, this is your hybrid option: start earning the most cash back possible with the cards you already have, instead of earning the points you had intended to redeem for your travel.

After all, everyone wants money. That's why they call it money.

What about negative travel budget shocks?

The impetus for this post was a huge positive travel budget shock. But there are other kinds of shocks: you could lose access to a merchant that previously allowed you to manufacture spend; you could suddenly learn of an unanticipated trip you have to take; Delta could stop publishing award charts and your miles could suddenly be worthless for the trips you planned to take.

You don't need to plan for every eventuality, but you should plan for some eventualities.

Conclusion

Don't for a second think that this post is meant to say that you need to treat every "win" as an excuse to lose sleep worrying over how to deal with it. The first thing you need to do is celebrate (I know I did).

But when you're done celebrating, you may want to spend a minute or two figuring out how you're going to work your win, big or small, into your overall miles and points strategy.

Quick hit: my annual fees and retention offers

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I wrote yesterday that I don't chase signup bonuses as one of my principle methods of earning miles and points. But I also consider recurring annual benefits to be worth almost nothing.

I've written before that companion tickets are scams, with the exception of the very generous version offered by Bank of America's Alaska Airlines — if you happen to live in a city served by Alaska — since it can be paid for with any credit card.

I've written before that annual free hotel nights are scams, although the Citi Hilton Reserve and Chase Hyatt free nights are slightly better than the rest — if you otherwise manufacture Hilton HHonors points or transfer your Ultimate Rewards points to Hyatt.

And of course, I'm the leading proponent of the argument that airline statement credits are worth (much) less than cash.

Five annual fees I'm willing to pay

As a result, I carry only five cards with annual fees, and I pay those annual fees solely because I believe manufacturing spend on the cards makes them worth keeping for my own miles and points strategy:

  • Chase Ink+. Bonus earning at office supply stores and gas stations, and turns my non-flexible Chase Freedom Ultimate Rewards points into flexible Ultimate Rewards points. $95 annual fee.
  • US Bank Flexperks Travel Rewards. Makes flying on paid airfares very cheap. $49 annual fee.
  • Barclaycard Arrival+. Makes hotels, Uber, and taxes and fees on award tickets cheap. $89 annual fee.
  • American Express Hilton HHonors Surpass. Makes hotels cheap. $75 annual fee.
  • American Express Delta Business Platinum. Makes Delta elite status cheap. $195 annual fee.

Even I'm willing to admit the Delta Business Platinum card is a marginal play, but I do really like checking bags, so the elite status is something I'm — for now — willing to pay for, as long as I'm also earning 1.4 SkyMiles per dollar spent with the card.

Don't pay annual fees you don't have to

Those are the annual fees I'm willing to pay. But I mostly don't.

  • On Wednesday I called the number on the back of my Ink+ card and explained I was trying to decide whether to keep the card. The frontline representative (no transfer required) offered me a $95 bonus statement credit to keep the card. $0 annual fee.
  • Every year I spend $24,000 on my Flexperks Travel Rewards card I receive 3,500 bonus Flexpoints, which I redeem against my annual fee. While the Flexpoints themselves are worth up to $70 when redeemed for airfare, this allows me to treat this card as a no-annual-fee card, which is my preference. $0 annual fee.
  • Each year I call Barclaycard and ask them to waive my annual fee. They have been happy to oblige for the last two years. $0 annual fee.
  • Also on Wednesday, I called American Express, told the computer I wanted to close my account, and was immediately directed to a representative who offered me a $50 statement credit to keep the card. $25 annual fee.
  • I haven't yet called American Express about my Delta Business Platinum card, whose annual fee I paid back in May. Hopefully they'll offer me something, although gunning for low-level Delta elite status is such a marginal play that I'll probably cancel the card anyway once I've secured status for the 2016 program year. $195 annual fee, minus a prorated refund.

Conclusion: your miles will vary

I assume one reason I have had luck so far with retention offers is that I spend hundreds of thousands of dollars per year on these cards.

If you spend less — or more — you'll find that the credit card companies have different offers for you, or possibly no offers at all, which is why it's important to know what annual fees you are willing to pay if you can't get them waived.

Only once you know how much you value a card, whether for its recurring annual bonuses or earning rate on manufactured spend, will you be able to decide whether the offers you receive from your credit card companies make it worth paying to keep your accounts open.

The only way I know how to value miles and points

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Yesterday I saw Trevor at Tagging Miles musing about how he values his miles and points, but in listing the different methods he's seen people use, he doesn't mention the only one that makes any sense to me. Since he framed his post as a rhetorical question, I'll take this lazy Friday opportunity to answer it.

Points are worthless until you redeem them

Feel free to carve out a small exception for points that can be redeemed directly for cash, like Ultimate Rewards points and US Bank Flexpoints, but the essential fact is that banked miles and points are the worst possible form of savings, outside of a large investment with Bernie Madoff:

  • Unlike money, they don't belong to you;
  • Unlike money, they can lose some or all of their redemption value overnight, whether through mergers, devaluations, or bankruptcies;
  • Unlike money, they don't earn interest.

That's why I keep my points balances as low as possible, and will almost always privilege redeeming miles and points over paying cash for reservations. Obviously I'll maximize the value of my miles and points over all my anticipated future reservations, but I don't store up miles and points for speculative, possible future reservations, when I need plane tickets and hotel rooms in the here and now.

When redeeming points, decide whether to earn more

The other reason to redeem miles and points, rather than cash, as aggressively as possible is that it affords a unique opportunity: the ability to see how much your miles and points are actually worth.

Like anyone else, in the process of planning each trip I search simultaneously for paid and award flights, and paid and award hotel nights – not because I'm interested in paying cash for a flight or hotel room, but because it gives an instant, accurate picture of how much my miles and points are worth: just look at the flight reservations you would make and hotel rooms you would book if you were paying cash, and look at the flights and hotels you would reserve if paying with miles and points.

For example, I earn 1.4 Delta SkyMiles per dollar spent on my Platinum Delta SkyMiles American Express card when I spend exactly $25,000 and $50,000 per calendar year (which, it follows, are the only amounts it makes sense to spend on the card). Since my next best card for unbonused spend is a 2.22% cash back Barclaycard Arrival+ card, I know I need to redeem my SkyMiles for "a bit more" than 1.59 cents each to justify manufacturing additional SkyMiles. I'll typically compare American, Delta, and Alaska fares, since those are the three airlines whose flights I can credit to the Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan.

If I find myself consistently redeeming my SkyMiles for less than 1.59 cents each, I know I need to shift my earning either to cash back or to another, more valuable rewards currency.

But note that this has no effect on my willingness to redeem my SkyMiles. With the ongoing devaluation disaster taking place at Delta, it would be madness itself to hoard SkyMiles for a speculative, future redemption if I already have enough SkyMiles in my account to book an award ticket (of course if I have another, higher-value redemption coming up, I'll redeem my SkyMiles first against that reservation before redeeming them against the less-valuable one).

Conclusion

That is the entirety of my methodology for valuing miles and points: I rely on the actual value I receive from the miles and points I manufacture, and use that value to decide which miles and points to manufacture on an ongoing basis. If, due to devaluations, movement of hotel properties between categories, or restrictions on award space, I find that I'm not getting enough value to continue manufacturing the miles and points I have in my accounts, I respond accordingly.

But I'll always privilege miles and points redemptions over paying for my travel with cash.

Ben Schlappig's hobby has nothing to do with mine

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I don't know Ben Schlappig, although I've been in the same, large room with him a few times. But Ben has been the subject of a recent media blitz (Rolling Stone, Nightline, the Economist) which has upset a number of people I do know for the attention it has drawn to travel hacking.

PFDigest, for example, describes the Rolling Stone article as putting "another nail in the coffin," while TravelBloggerBuzz asserts about the Economist article and Nightline segment that "each one of these PR stunts hurts the hobby."

Ben Schlappig's hobby is buying remaindered premium-cabin seats at deep discounts

Ben Schlappig is a rich weirdo.

And God bless him! Many immigrant families take multiple generations to attain the middle class, and here he is: the son of immigrants, buying Florida condos, living out of luxury hotels, and subjected to the affection of fans and flight attendants all over the world.

But needless to say, virtually no actual travel hackers are the proprietors of popular blogs where they're able to earn hundreds of thousands of dollars selling credit cards to unsuspecting newbies while farming out their award booking business to independent contractors.

It's certainly an interesting fact that wealthy people with knowledge of loyalty programs can buy premium-cabin seats at a deep discount compared to their unknowledgeable peers.

But it has nothing to do with me.

My hobby is travel hacking

While buying discounted premium-cabin seats is a hobby, it isn't my hobby. My hobby is traveling, and figuring out how to pay as little as possible for my trips.

Before the site was rebranded, Travel Codex was called "Hack My Trip," which I always liked the sound of. A trip to me is more than a seat in a premium cabin: it's hotels, museums, restaurants, churches, universities, people, and more.

So I plan dozens of trips per year, often to visit friends and family, sometimes to visit new cities, sometimes just to take advantage of Bank of America's underrated "Museums on Us" program.

And since I'm the opposite of a rich weirdo (a poor weirdo?), my goal is to spend as little money as possible paying for the trips I want to take. Furthermore, those trips are often inflexible! I know when my brother's graduation is going to be, so if I want to be there, I need to be there on time. I know when my partner's work conferences are, so if I want to go, I need to be on flights that get me there while they're taking place.

And that's the experience of almost everyone I talk to in the travel hacking community. With limited vacation time or fixed school schedules, most people need to get where they actually want to go, and they hope to use travel hacking techniques to get there as cheaply as possible.

There is no reason for people like me to care when Lufthansa opens their premium cabin seats for partner award redemptions — unless I actually want to fly somewhere on Lufthansa!

And that's the difference between Ben Schlappig's hobby and mine: he cares even when he has nowhere to be and no reason to be there.

I'll worry when the mainstream media pays attention to real travel hacking

A photogenic, tortured protagonist. A whiff of scandal. Shots of first class cabins and luxury hotel rooms. That's the kind of story anyone can understand, and it's the kind of story the mainstream media eats up.

Merchant coding? Adverse action? ChexSystems? Maybe you'll read about them in trade publications, but what would Rolling Stone, Nightline, or the Economist have to say about them? And how many of their readers would care?

The fact is, most of what actual travel hackers do simply puts us out on the long tail of loyalty programs; we may be unprofitable, but we don't cost more than the profit generated by the vast bulk of customers who behave according to expectations. For every $7.90 in profit a travel hacker makes buying $2.10 Ticketmaster tickets, how many people buy $50 tickets instead? $100 tickets? Of course they're saving money on tickets they would buy anyway, but they're also generating a profit for American Express that, ultimately, more than offsets ours.

Conclusion

Naturally, any individual travel hacking technique is subject to more pressure the more people who take advantage of it, and consequently there are techniques which travel hackers prefer to receive as little publicity as possible. But travel hacking as a whole is too diverse a spectrum of behavior for the banks, airlines, hotels, and merchants to decide to bring it to an end simply because of "too much exposure."

So as long as Ben Schlappig is "revealing" to the media that he books last-minute premium-cabin seats with his Ultimate Rewards points, I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.

How to glamp right. Hint: don't be me

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I'm still recovering from a 3-night glamping adventure, so no serious miles-and-points analysis today. Instead, here are my thoughts on what you should keep in mind when going glamping for the first time.

Introduction

I grew up in Western Montana, which means I grew up camping. Camping meant driving (as kids) or hiking (as adults) as far as you could before sundown, leaving just enough time to throw up tents and start a fire before having a quick dinner, telling some jokes, and turning in for the night. Space and carrying capacity being limited, you packed exactly what you planned to eat for each meal, each day in the wilderness — plus maybe a few protein bars.

So when my friends invited me camping, that's more or less what I expected. It turns out Madeline Island is a fully-developed resort community that happens to have a state park where camping is permitted.

Things I did wrong

Here's a quick rundown of the things I did wrong on this glamping adventure:

  • Pillows. When you're hiking into camp, you bring a sleeping bag with a padded top — a pillow would take up an impossible amount of space. When you're glamping, you drive right into the campsite, and can fill the whole car with pillows if you like. After the first night, I ended up sleeping in the car since it was more comfortable than lying flat on my back on the gravel ground of the campsite.
  • Sports equipment. When you go glamping in a resort community, there are community amenities like tennis courts and softball fields. Since I've been teaching my partner tennis this summer, the trip would have been a lot more fun if we'd brought some rackets and balls. Check ahead of time what amenities are available near your glampsite.
  • Bathing gear. Needless to say, when camping in Western Montana your only chance at a bath is a very quick dip in the nearest (ice-cold, glacier-fed) river. Our glampsite had running water and showers, but it didn't occur to me to bring towels. Or shampoo. Or soap. Remember: I thought we were going camping!
  • Firestarters. On the night my partner and I got the campfire going, it took us hours to carefully coax the wood up until it was finally hot enough to cook on. When our friends started the fire, they put some prefabricated fuel cubes in the fire and lit them, which only took a few minutes. Do that instead.

Things I did right

Having said that, I got a few things right:

  • Way too much food. Rather than planning each meal in advance, we went on a shopping spree beforehand buying both the stuff we wanted to cook over the campfire and a variety of snacks that we knew we'd eat eventually. This was a great move, since when glamping the urgency of coordinating meals is much lower, and you may end up needing more snacks between meals.
  • Camping uniform. Since I wasn't planning to shower, I picked a pretty simple camping uniform: long underwear, a pair of shorts, and a long-sleeved, lightweight shirt. It kept me mostly bite-free from disease-carrying insects, and worry-free from getting dirt and grass stains, since they were basically my workout clothes.
  • Reading material. Just like when camping, the days in camp are long and boring. Bring everything you can think of to read. Stock up on podcasts. Download movies. You may think you're there to enjoy nature's beauty, but when the sun rises at 5 AM and sets at 9 PM, it's unlikely you're going to spend every daylight hour communing with woodland creatures.

Conclusion

This trip was not exactly like anything I'd done before. I've stayed at relatively luxurious guesthouses in the national parks of California and Alaska, and I've gone camping in the wilderness areas of Western Montana. But the idea of combining showers and flush toilets with tents and sleeping bags on the ground positively baffled me.

Still, while I probably wouldn't drive 6 hours in each direction to do it again, I'll say I'm glad I gave it a shot.

Triggering high-interest savings accounts

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Last month I wrote about two high-interest savings accounts linked to the Mango and Union Plus prepaid debit card products. At that time, Mango was no longer available for new signups, and I speculated that Union Plus would soon be closed to new cardholders as well.

Doctor of Credit reported yesterday that, sure enough, that day has come, and it's no longer possible to open new Union Plus prepaid accounts.

If you were lucky enough to open accounts in time, however, you still have access to those accounts, including their linked high-interest savings accounts, and you may be wondering how to trigger those high rates.

Rêv gives detailed information on deposits

When you make a deposit to a Mango or Union Plus account, it appears in your transaction history with a fair amount of detail. Here are four different transaction types I tried in order to trigger my second Mango card's high-interest savings account (I did two of each):

An Amazon Payments transfer:

A transfer from the Stripe account where my monthly blog subscriptions are deposited:

A TopCashBack redemption:

And a Chase Ultimate Rewards cash redemption:

And sure enough, in June I earned 6.02% APY on my savings account.

The problem is, Mango doesn't tell you which transactions triggered the higher interest rate!

Narrowing it down to 2

That's where the process of elimination comes in, since I opened both a second Mango account and a Union Plus prepaid account. But I haven't made a TopCashBack or Amazon Payments deposit to my Union Plus account: I've only made Stripe transfers and Chase Ultimate Rewards cash redemptions.

But in June, I earned $0.27 on an average daily balance of $66.66 in the savings account linked to my Union Plus prepaid card. Since these savings accounts compound daily, that puts me right in the ballpark of the promised 5.10% APY. In other words, one or both of Chase Ultimate Rewards redemptions or Stripe transfers qualified as direct deposits for the purposes of triggering the high-interest savings account.

If I had an additional account, I would see if Chase Ultimate Rewards cash redemptions alone are enough to trigger the higher interest rate, as I suspect they are.

I'll be maxing out these accounts as quickly as possible

Now that new applications are closed for both products, it's unclear how long existing cardholders will be allowed to keep their accounts. With that in mind, I'll be maxing out these accounts as quickly as possible in order to earn the full interest rate for as long as possible before existing accounts are closed.